Japan 

Japan Rail (JR) Pass

What made this trip especially affordable was the Japan Rail (JR) Pass, which comes in 7, 14 and 21 consecutive day options and allows you to ride most trains (but not subways) throughout Japan for free. Unfortunately, the price of these passes went up by as much as 77% last fall, so they may no longer be your best option. 

Drop your luggage off at your hostel and stroll over to the Asakusa district of Tokyo to visit the ancient Buddhist temple of Sensō-ji. 

This temple was built in 645 AD and dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon, the goddess of mercy and happiness. It is the oldest temple in Japan and the most visited temple in the world. 

Notice the fierce-looking Nio or guardian figures at the entrance. Nio always come in pairs with one having a closed mouth and the other having an open mouth. The closed mouth deters evil spirts from entering, while the open mouth welcomes in good spirits. 

Then spend an hour or two walking through the colorful, vibrant shopping area of Asakusa. Known for its blend of old and new Japan, this historic neighborhood offers food stalls to entice the curious and stores selling every manner of good that you didn't know you needed! Even if you don't buy a thing, I guarantee you, you'll enjoy the immersive experience of just strolling down Nakamise-dori. When then shops close, you're ready to return to your hostel to rest up for your next activity-packed day. 

Night 1 of 3 in Tokyo

Begin your day by heading to Ueno Park, one of Japan's oldest parks and the home to several cultural sites. 

Our first site of interest, Kaneiji Temple, is technically outside the park. This temple dates back to 1625 and was once one of the largest and most elaborate in Japan. It was closely aligned with the Tokugawa shogunate (i.e. military rulers who controlled Japan from 1603 to 1867) and six of its 15 shoguns are interred in a family mausoleum within its cemetery.  

The temple was once part of a sprawling complex of over 30 buildings that extended beyond present day JR Uneo Station and Ueno Park. It was heavily damaged during WWII and what remains today rests on land that once held a sub-temple. 

Pass through the massive main gate and try to imagine the enormity of the grounds at the peak of the Edo period. Wander the beautiful grounds and admire the traditional Japanese architecture of the five-storied Kaneiji pagoda.

The primary Buddha deity honored at the temple is Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Medicine, with the temple's main hall, Kompon-Chu-do, dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai.  

Allow one to two hours to explore the grounds before making your way to the nearby Tokyo National Museum.   

Twenty-fours years later Ieyasu's grandson had the temple rebuilt into the more ornate design you see today, so visitors from Tokyo could enjoy a more ostentatious setting in which to worship. 

Food for thought: As you stand admiring the fine details of Toshogu Shrine, consider that this building was once part of the massive complex that made up Kaneiji Temple... your starting point several hours ago!  

And speaking of food, it may now be time to grab some lunch at a local restaurant or head down to Sibuya and eat there. Whichever you decide, I suggest avoiding street food in favor of a convenience store, restaurant or grocery store. 

Case in point: I had been salivating to try okonomiyaki in Japan ever since it was first described to me. But after having my palate ruined by a (possibly) bad version of the dish, I was reluctant to wait in line to try it elsewhere. 

As always, you're going to get the best recommendations for anything from your hosts or fellow travelers. Barring that, look for the restaurants with the lines of Japanese out front. 

We spent the afternoon wandering through interesting neighborhoods like Shibuya City to witness the famous Shibuya scramble crossing.   

In case you haven't heard of this, the scramble crossing is in a heavily populated section of Tokyo. All the stop lights turn red at the same time, allowing thousands of pedestrians to scramble across the intersection at once. It's fascinating to witness. 

Just outside of Shibuya train station you'll find a memorial to Hachikō-- the Japanese Akita dog who has become an enduring symbol of loyalty. The true story of Hachikō goes like this: Every morning Hachikō would walk his owner to the train station  and wait at the station for him to return in the evening. One day, his owner died suddenly and failed to return to the station. Hachikō continued to wait for his owner, never leaving their meeting spot. He eventually died waiting there...nine years later! 

Spend the evening browsing through stores and sampling food you just can't get anywhere else. 

Night 2 of 3 in Tokyo

We spent the morning shopping in the vibrant Shinjuku and Shibuya districts, before taking a breather in the serene Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. 

Renown for its cherry blossoms in the spring and autumn colors, this expansive garden was the home of a feudal lord during the Edo period. It was later donated to the Imperial Family. It was badly damaged during WWII, but rebuilt and opened to the public in 1949. 

The grounds are expansive, combining three separate styles (French, Japanese, and English) within its borders. You'll want to see them all and perhaps even have tea at one of its tea houses. Allow at least 90 minutes to walk the paths, visit the pavilions, and tour the green houses. Hours vary by season, so be sure to consult their website when planning your visit. (Admission is  Y500.) 

** Advance reservations are required if you plan to visit during Cherry Blossom Season (March-April). 

Next, take the short walk over to Meiji Jingu Shinto shrine.   

Situated in the heart of Tokyo and surrounded by a forest of over 100,00 trees, this peaceful shrine offers a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. It was built in 1920 and dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken. Meiji is honored for having opened Japan to Western ideas, such as industrialization and modernization, while preserving Japanese traditions and culture. 

There are two massive torii gates at the entrance. Passing through the first symbolizes leaving the mundane world behind. Passing through the second symbolizes entering the spiritual realm. 

Beyond this lie barrels of sake and burgundy given as offerings to the deities, the inner garden and the haiden or oratory where you can make an offering and pray. 

To make an offering, it is recommended to use a shiny 5 yen coin. (Here, more is not necessarily better.) 

1. Step up to the offering box

2. Toss in the coin

3. Bow twice

4. Clap your hands twice or ring the bell (to wake up the gods!) 

5. Bow again

Since Meiji Shrine abuts Yoyogi Park, you can flow seamlessly from one to the other. But make no mistake: you are leaving a shrine and entering a diverse open space cherished by Tokyoites as a nature-filled oasis within the city.  

The land upon which Yoyogi Park was built was used for a variety of purposes over the years, from a military training ground at the beginning of the last century, to US Army barracks after WWII, to an  Olympic Village in 1967 and finally a public park in 1971.  

The park is landscaped with grassy lawns, ponds, gardens, pavilions and even a sports stadium, attracting locals and visitors of all ages and abilities. 

Now that you've had your fill of gardens, shrines and parks, you're ready for some serious shopping...or at least some serious entertainment! And I can think of no better place to experience modern Japanese culture than at the MEGA Don Quixote store in Shibuya. 

The best way I can describe this store is eight floors of addictively intriguing sensory overload. Imagine all levels packed from floor to ceiling with every item imaginable. Then add in sound-- multiple automated sales presentations blaring at you in Japanese, trying to get you to buy this product or that. Finally, add flashing neon lights attempting to grab whatever residual attention it can from your already overloaded brain. This is Don Quixote; crazy wild and I love it! 

The store is fascinating, selling everything from medicines and toiletries, to housewares, adhesives, snacks and groceries. 

But if you had any hope of taking a break from the din by escaping to the restroom, think again! While most Japanese toilets have heated seats, bidets and electronic controls, those in Don Quixote come complete with blaring ads. So there's no need for the "gentle flushing" or "running water" sounds that many other toilets emit.  

When you've worn yourself out, make your way back to your hostel. Tomorrow we leave for Yudanaka via Nagano.  

Night 3 of 3 in Tokyo. 

Day 4 (of pass): Yudanaka via Nagano 

Today you'll use your JR pass to travel to Yudanaka via Nagano. Nagano is known for its fine skiing and snowboarding and hosting the 1998 Winter Olympics. Yudanaka is 60 to 90 minutes northeast of Nagano and is a convenient place to overnight prior to visiting Jigokudani Monkey Park (aka Snow Monkey Park)-- an area set aside to preserve the Japanese macaques living in the Yokoyu River Valley. 

The journey by rail to Nagano Station is about 2.5 hours from Tokyo, so if you leave in the morning, you'll arrive in time for lunch. Store your luggage in a locker at the train station, have lunch at one of the many restaurants in town as you stroll up Nakamise Dori shopping street toward Zenkōji.  

There's no charge to visit the temple, but for Y500 you can enter the inner chamber to get a better look at the alter. You can then walk through an underground passage in complete darkness. A key is mounted somewhere on the wall of this passage and is said to grant salvation to anyone who touches it. I recommend 2-3 hours to stroll the extensive grounds and nearby shops. 

By the time we collected our luggage, caught a train to Yudanaka, and arrived at our Japanese style (ryokan) lodging, it was nightfall. (We were unsure of our arrival time, so declined the in-room dinner that is usually included in ryokan lodging.)  

Yudanaka is a sleepy little onsen town and we were fortunate to get a Japanese style room complete with ofuro and onsen. 

An ofuro is a Japanese style bathtub that is roughly half as long and almost twice as deep as a Western style bathtub. It is used for bathing and soaking. 

An onsen is a larger, deeper communal pool containing mineral-rich water that's naturally heated by the earth to at least 25 degrees C (77 F). These pools can be indoors or out, but are only used for soaking and relaxation. (See onsen etiquette below.) Given a choice between the two, I jumped at the chance to use an onsen for the first time.  

After a delicious dinner in a local restaurant, we headed back to our ryokan, grabbed a yukata (light Japanese robe) and made our way to our respective onsens. The wash and soak left us ready for bed and we drifted off to sleep on our futons. 

Night 1 of 1 in Yudanaka.

Day 5 (of pass): Jigokudani Park to Fujikawaguchiko via Tokyo

Our host graciously drove us to the entrance of Jigokudani Park at 0900. From there, it is a 30-40 minute hike through a wooded forest up the valley to the man-made "snow monkey" pool. 

I had wanted to see these monkeys in their "natural habitat" after seeing them on Planet Earth several years earlier. It was only in researching the park prior to my visit that I learned how it had come to be set aside. 

We followed the trail as it wound up the Yokoyu River Valley, enjoying the autumn gold and beckoned by a curious hissing sound. The noise turned out to be Shibo no Jigokudani Geyser-- a geyser notable in a country of more than 27,000 hot springs and geysers. Unlike others which erupt episodically, this geyser shoots a continuous plume of 90C water and steam 20 meters into the air. 

Shortly thereafter we reached the monkeys' thermal pool and were not surprised to see it empty. Signs in the Nagano Train Station-- no doubt posted to manage tourists' expectations-- reminded us that the monkeys are wild and don't appear on demand. 

Though my purpose in traveling out to this part of Japan was to see the "snow monkeys", I found the small onsen town of Yudanaka ablaze with fall color and a worthwhile destiny in itself. I say this because if your enjoyment in traveling out here hinges upon seeing the Japanese macaques bathing in the hot springs, you should plan your trip in January or February when there is snow on the ground.

The park has a live webcam so you can study the troop's daily routine and time your visit to coincide with their soaking times. Knowing this, I chose to visit in autumn when the weather was warm and I could experience fall colors. If you go in winter, I recommend instep crampons to prevent slipping on an icy trail. 

As for us, we enjoyed our hike back to the entrance, caught the local bus back to town, collected our luggage, and caught a train for Tokyo. From there, we caught a bus to Fuikawaguchiko. 

Night 1 of 2 in Fujikawaguchiko.  

Day 6 (of pass): Fujikawaguchiko

With one and a half days to spend in the Fuji Five Lakes Region, we planned to explore the surrounding area on the first and hike Mt. Fuji on  the second. Unfortunately, mother nature had other plans, and we awoke the next morning to find the mountain hidden beneath a layer of storm clouds.  

We decided to swap days for our plans and caught a tourist bus out to Saiko Yacho-no-mori Park (Wild Bird Forest). 

Our initial destination was Aokigahara Forest-- a dense forest at the base of Mt. Fuji which piqued my curiosity when I learned that it had become  notorious as a destination for suicides. 

I wanted to see it and feel it for myself, as I had the Culloden Hills in Scotland and the battlefield in Hastings, England. 

The first thing that struck me as I entered Aokigahara Forest (aka "sea of trees") was how quiet it was. The Jukai Nature Trail weaves through buckling folds of cave-riddled lava flows, with saplings springing up from any space with enough water, nutrients and sunlight to support life. Undergrowth is thick and footing uncertain, so visitors need little persuasion so stay on the path.   

We walked from Wild Bird Forest to Route 710, which was enough to provide us both with a somber reflection on the fragility of life. With that, we were ready to explore two of Mt. Fuji's lava caves-- Wind Cave and Ice Cave. 

Fugaku Fuketsu (Wind Cave) is a lava cave formed during the last eruption of Mt. Fuji in 864 CE. Since lava cools from the outside in, the hardened outer surfaces formed a tube through which molten lava continued to flow. The result is a gently sloping 201m long tube containing several types of lava.  

The cave is deep underground, so water that seeps into the cave freezes in winter but doesn't completely thaw in summer. Thus, the cave maintains a fairly constant temperature of 3C (37F) year round making it an ideal natural refrigerator. 

This advantage was not lost on prior generations, who until 1955 used Wind Cave to store silk worm cocoons and seeds. Storing the cocoons allowed silkworms to be bred 3 or 4 times per year instead of once or twice, and storing quality seeds kept them fresh and improved their budding.

A nearby but different lava cave is Narusawa Hyoketsu (Ice Cave). Like Wind Cave, this cave is deep underground and is reached by descending a staircase. It runs a little cooler than Wind Cave, maintaining a fairly constant temperature of 0C year round. As such, it served as the "freezer" for the shogunate and his entourage during the Edo Period, with blocks of ice being transported to Tokyo for over a hundred years. It remained a primary source of ice for the region until the first electric refrigerators in the 20th century.

Caution: 

• Wear good footwear and use the handrails provided. 

• This activity might not be appropriate for those with unsure footing/balance and/or those who are less agile. 

• Taller visitors will want to use the hard hats provided at the front entrance as this cave is less than 3 feet tall in places. 

It was mid afternoon by the time we finished exploring the area. Given our somewhat remote location and the infrequent nature of rural buses, we decided to catch a 30-minute bus ride back to Kawaguchiko Station and continue sightseeing from there. My son, familiar with the area, suggested a walk to Tenjoyama Park. 

The trailhead was about a 15 minute walk from the station. From there, we headed up a steep trail past Tenjoyamagokoku Shrine to the Nakabadaira View Point. Once there, we were treated to a stunning view of Mt Fuji and the lake region. (There's also a ropeway that goes straight to this point without the necessity of a hike.) 

By the time we hiked down, shopped for groceries and made it back to our hostel, it was dark. We spent a relaxing evening in our hostel lounge catching up on e-mails and getting to know our fellow travelers. 

Night 2 of 2 in Fujikawaguchiko.

Day 7 (of pass): Mt. Fuji

We awoke the next morning to dazzling sunshine and a clear view of Mt. Fuji. We checked out and headed over to Kawaguchiko Station where we would buy bus tickets to Fuji Subaru Line Fifth Station (2300m elevation). This point is about halfway up the mountain. From there, we planned to do a partial day hike up the Yoshida Trail toward the summit of Mt. Fuji (3776m). 

But once again, mother nature had other plans, as the roads had yet to be cleared from the prior day's storm. So the farthest up the mountain we could go would be to the Fourth Station (2020m).       Did we still want to go?

Of course we said "yes", planning to walk up the closed road for an hour or two, then turn around and walk back down. We stored our luggage, bought tickets for the bus, and were soon heading up the mountain toward 4th station. Once we got there, however, we realized the road was closed to foot traffic as well, and there were no trails in the area. Any plans we'd had of hiking the mountain that day had to be scraped. So we paid Y2800 to ride up to a sign and wait around for an hour to ride back down. In short, the morning was a bust!  

After loading our laundry in a combo washer/dryer (way cool!), and a relaxing dinner at a local restaurant, we headed over to Odawara Castle. 

The original castle dates back to the mid-15th century or Sengoku period (1467-1615)-- a time in Japan's history marked by almost continuous social and political upheaval as waring clans battled for control. 

The castle sustained three sieges and several earthquakes over the centuries, so by 1870 was in ruins. It was dismantled in 1890, only to be reconstructed in 1960 using drawings and models from the Edo period to recreate what it had looked like in its heyday.  

Today the castle houses a Samurai Museum explaining the history and displaying artifacts from the Edo and Sengoku Periods. There is also a model of the donjon (keep) and an observation tower, offering views of Sagami Bay and the Mt. Fuji foothills. 

While the castle grounds remain unlocked all night, I recommend going during the day when the castle donjon is open (Hours: daily from 9:00-5:00, with last admission at 4:30PM; 9:00-6:00 PM weekends & holidays.) 

Night 1 of 2 in Odawara/Hakone

Day 8 (of pass): Hakone Loop

We were out the door by 9AM the next morning, headed to Hakone-- a lakeside resort town known for its fresh mountain air, spa treatments and onsens. To make the most of our day, we purchased the Hakone Freepass-- a single pass offering unlimited free transport on eight different modes of transportation within the Hakone area for a two or three-day period. At Y5400 Yen for the two-day pass (from Odawara), it seemed a bit pricey. But the ease of seamless travel on our single precious day made it worth the cost. 

While you can travel the loop in either direction, we chose a clockwise route. From Odawara Station, we took the Hakone Tozan Bus to MotoHakone-Ko (stop 67) to stroll the temples and shrines along the south shore of Lake Ashi and walk Kyukaido Ishidatami (the Old Tokaido Highway). In the Edo period (from 1603-1869), this highway served as the main route of travel between Tokyo and Kyoto. It was manned by checkpoints, like that reconstructed in Hakone, to limit the movement of women (out of) and arms (into) Tokyo.  

The Checkpoint was excavated from 1999- 2001 and rebuilt in the early 2000's using historical documents, traditional tools and building techniques of the Edo Period. 

We hadn't planned on spending much time at this site, but ended up paying the small admission fee and spending a couple of hours viewing the fascinating and well-documented exhibit. 

Today, visitors can tour reconstructed buildings, furnished with period furniture and mannequins to give a snapshot into daily operations at Hakone Sekisho during its heyday. Most rooms have informational signs and oral narrations in Japanese and English. 

I found these both fascinating and frustrating, since I had to wait for the Japanese monologues to end before I could hear the English versions. 

Checkpoint crossings, like that in Hakone (Hakone Sekisho), elicited much fear in travelers, as documents were scrutinized and persons were carefully searched. Checkpoints aimed to prevent the smuggling of muskets into the region and keep the daimyo lords' wives, who were held as prisoners, from escaping. Attempts to sneak through a checkpoint were punishable by jail time or even death. 

Your paid admission to the Checkpoint also gets you into the nearby museum. However, since none of the signs were in English, and we'd already spent 2 hours at this one exhibit, we decided to explore the South Shore of Lake Ashi.  

Hakone Shrine sits along the shores of Lake Ashinoko and is extremely picturesque as images of the "floating" torii gate often also include Mt. Fuji in the background. 

Walk up the cedar and lantern-lined pathway to the shrine buildings to engage in the ancient ritual of water purification at the Nine Dragon Fountain. 

From Owakudani we boarded another ropeway toward Sounzan, and were disappointed to find the free footbaths closed for the day. After snapping a few pictures from the observation deck, we transferred to the Hakone-Tozan Cable Car to Gora. As it was late afternoon on this autumn day, dusk was fast approaching. We skipped the Hakone Open-Air Museum and caught the Hakone-Tozan Train to Kowakidani. From there, we switched to a bus that took us to Odawara Station. 

It's worth noting that routes are less frequent and the "last" bus, train, gondola, etc. generally leaves earlier in the evening during shoulder seasons. 

We stopped for dinner on the way home and settled in for the night. 

Night 2 of 2 in Odawara/Hakone

Day 9 (of pass): Hakone to Kyoto

We left Odawara, anticipating taking a Shinkansen to Kyoto. According to Google Maps, the 400km journey would take us under three hours, which would put us in Kyoto by noon. But somehow, we found ourselves on a local train, which stretched the three hour journey into over five. By the time we arrived in Kyoto Station it was 3 PM. We checked into our hostel in the Gion District and headed to Nishiki Market. 

I had seen Nishiki Market featured on a travel show many years earlier and made it a personal goal to visit it one day. 

The market consists of a long, narrow covered alleyway lined with more than 100 vendors selling everything from fish balls and squid ("on a stick") to high quality ingredients, to random souvenirs. Though I didn't find anything I wanted to "commit to" for dinner, it was super fun to walk the market, sample a bite here and there and browse. We spent the rest of the evening shopping and tasting in the sprawling markets that surround the area. 

Night 1 of 2 Kyoto

Day 10 (of pass): Kyoto- Fushimi Inari Shrine, Arashiyama Bamboo Forest & Monkey Park 

Since we'd arrived too late to see Fushimi Inari Shrine yesterday, that was at the top of our list this morning. We rented bikes from our hostel, and by 7:30 we were cruising through the mostly empty streets of Kyoto's famed Gion-- a district known for its geisha culture.   

Note: As we rode through the district of wooden Japanese buildings, our fingers itched to snap photos. But don't be tempted: Due to complaints from residents and business owners, "no photography" signs are posted and there's a Y10,000 fine for those who disregard this rule. 

Following the river for about 10 minutes and crossing the Togetsu Bridge brought us to a boat dock and the entrance to Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama. 

If you're still feeling disappointed by not seeing any wild monkeys during your visit to Jigokudani, rest assured that monkeys here are both plentiful and accessible. Please note, however, that "accessible" does not mean easy. It just means that there are no cages or barriers preventing the monkeys from approaching visitors or leaving the area. In fact the park may close early on days when the monkeys return to the forest earlier in the day. 

There's a 1-mile uphill hike from the entrance gate to the Kyoto City overlook where the monkey's hang out. The monkeys don't really care about humans and are not bothered by us. That said, there are strict guidelines about how visitors may and may not interact with the monkeys. Namely, don't feed them unless you are in the designated feeding hut,  don't point the camera directly at them as this is a sign of aggression, and don't chase or otherwise harass them. Pretty basic rules, but you'd be surprised what people do! 

The park is open daily from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM and there is a small admission fee. Allow at least 90 minutes to hike to and visit this site. 

We spent our last evening walking the quiet streets of the Gion District and enjoying the blend of the old with the new. 

Night 2 of 2 Kyoto

We could have reached our overnight destination by nightfall if I hadn't stopped every 10 minutes to snap photos. But the evening was warm, the scenery spectacular and my son indulgent. It soon became apparent we'd reach our destination after nightfall. We stopped at a convenience store (conbini) to load up on food anticipating that the cafe at our destination would be closed by the time we arrived.

With our daypacks full of sustenance, we continued on as dusk faded into night. Save for the occasional passing car, our only companion was the sound of waves lapping against the seawall.   

The decision to buy convenience store food turned out to be a good one, for when we arrived at our hostel we were told the cafe was indeed closed. But not to worry, for there was a Family Mart directly across the street. 

We stayed at I-Link Hostel & Cafe which can be booked on a variety of booking websites, such as Booking.com. Although at $50/night it wasn't cheap, I found that it had most things you'd need for a decent night's sleep. For example, slippers and pajamas were provided; the bathrooms were stocked with and extended selection of toiletries;the futons were clean and comfortable; and there were even washer/dryers for guest laundry.  

Night 1 of 1 Ohmishimi Island

Peace Memorial Park- Hiroshima

Our first stop after checking into our hostel and leaving our luggage, was Peace Memorial Park- Hiroshima, a park built to commemorate the bombing of Hiroshima. It was here, at 8:15 on August 6, 1945 that the first atomic bomb ever used in warfare was dropped on Hiroshima and its people. This site now serves as a place of remembrance and reflection in the hope that such an event will never be repeated.   

The target of the bomb was the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall-- a building  converted to government use during wartime. After the bombing, the eerie steel skeleton of the dome and the outer walls were all that remained. It is now known as Atomic Bomb Dome and stands as a reminder of the devastating effects of war.  

Day 13 (of pass): Peace Museum & Miyajima

We had gone the Peace Museum the day before, only to find a long line. We decided to come back at opening time our last full day in an effort to beat the crowds. This time, the line was much longer!  But it is definitely a "must see" site, so allow at least 3 hours for your visit, plus about 45 min to 1 hour to wait in line. 

As a nurse familiar with the biological effects of radiation poisoning, and an engineer who has toured sites at Los Alamos, I found the museum fascinating. I was impressed at how technical phenomena were explained so as to make them understandable to laymen. Room after room was filled with photos and artifacts from the horrific event, bringing the tragedy to life as is impossible from any text book. 

Be forewarned that many of the images in this museum are quite gruesome. (But that is war...) 

We left the museum at noon, stopped for lunch at a local restaurant, then headed south towards Miyajima Pier. 

The ride to Miyajimaguchi Station took about an hour. From there, we followed the crowd to the pier to get tickets (included with your JR Pass) for the 10-minute ferry ride to Miyajima Island. 

Miyajima is an island in Hiroshima Bay, perhaps best known for the "floating" torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine. Built on tidal flats, the shrine and the island itself, has been considered sacred for over a thousand years. The shrine dates back to 593 and is dedicated to the three Shinto goddesses of seas and storms: Ichikishimahime  no mikoto, Tagorihime no mikoto, and Tagitsuhime no mikoto. 

This magical island where deer roam freely is considered among Japan's top three scenic sites. It's worthy of a full day of exploration or even an overnight stay.  

Day 14 (of pass): Hiroshima to Tokyo via Shinkansen and fly out. 

Our day started at 4:30 AM, as we would need to walk 45 minutes to reach Hiroshima Station to ensure we caught the early shinkansen to Tokyo. We reached the station with plenty of time to spare and arrived in Tokyo about noon. From there, we split up-- he headed toward Narita and I to Haneda. We both had overnight flights and arrived back in the US that same day.