Ireland & 

Northern Ireland

First, let me tell you that there is no border between the two countries. This was something which really surprised me, as I weighed the anticipated hassle of crossing an international border during the COVID-19 pandemic, against my desire to visit the ruggedly beautiful coastline of Northern Ireland. In the end, I decided it was worth the hassle and was pleasantly surprised when none of my fears materialized. As we drove north from The Republic, we just kept driving...and driving. There was no signpost...not even a message from my Google phone saying, "Welcome to the United Kingdom". Nothing. While remnants of "The Troubles" (as the conflict between the two countries is known) in Northern Ireland remain, the only way you will likely know you've crossed into a different country is that you're now paying in British pounds, instead of euros. 

That said, a couple words of advice: do not talk politics and/or religion! Just go with an open heart and enjoy this hauntingly beautiful land which has been economically battered by the global shutdown. Read on to see Ruth's top 10 favorites for Ireland

Ruth's Top 10 Favorites: Ireland

Above: Early lantern in Dublin's National Museum of Archeology

10. National Museum of Archeology, Dublin, Ireland

This museum houses a spectacular collection of relics from Ireland's past, including well-preserved bog bodies (400-200BC), hoards from Viking raids, and other objects dating as far back as 7000BC. 

Admission is free. In August of 2021, the museum required advanced online ticketing and masks. As of this writing, this does not appear to be the case. Visit the National Museum of Archeology website by clicking here.

Above: Howth Cliff Walk near Dublin, Ireland. 

9. Howth Cliff Walk

Billed as one of the finest walks in Dublin, this gentle clifftop walk follows the coastline, providing lovely views of hidden beaches and Dublin Bay at is ambles over rolling hills toward Baily Lighthouse. The walk from the train station to the lighthouse is an easy 3.5 km stroll. Retrace your steps here for a short walk, or extend it by following any of the 3 loop trails back to town. 

Reach Howth by taking the Dublin Area Rapid Transport (DART) to Howth. Click here for more information. 

Above: Me dwarfed by The Dark Hedges

8. The Dark Hedges, County Antrim, Northern Ireland

Made famous by Game of Thrones, the Dark Hedges are meticulously pruned mature beech trees, which give the appearance of being otherworldly. Located in County Antrim, near sites #7 and #3 on this list, the Dark Hedges are just one of the many landscapes you may come upon in Northern Ireland which will give you feelings of deja vu. In fact, over 80% of the series has been shot in Northern Ireland. 

The Hedges are located off Ballinlea Road; please park in the fee visitor parking lot near The Hedges Hotel. 

Above: Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge near Ballintoy. 

7. Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, County Antrim, Northern Ireland.

The Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge is a rope bridge in County Antrim near Ballintoy. The bridge connects the mainland to the tiny island of Carrickarede, spanning a 30 meter deep, 20 meter wide chasm. 

While it's reported that there has been some sort of bridge across this chasm for over 350 years, the current bridge was built in 2008 as a tourist attraction and is now managed by the National Trust. The bridge was closed during my visit, but reopened in May of 2022.  

Tickets to cross the bridge cost GBP$13 and must be booked in advance. Click here for tickets and more information. 

Above: Monastic site in Glendalough. 

6. Glendalough Valley, Wicklow Mountains National Park, County Wicklow

Site of an Early Medieval monastic site founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin. 

Stroll through the lovely monastic ruins. Then begin the 10 km loop (Spink Walk) by hiking up the rock trail alongside Glenealo Falls. After you cross the river, you'll be rewarded with spectacular views of the Glendalough Valley. From here, you can follow the boardwalk along the Spinc ridge to your point of origin. 

I hiked this trail during the COVID-19 pandemic, when visitors were directed to hike the loop in a clockwise direction. I was glad to have my hiking poles with me as I made my way down the steep and rocky trail alongside Glenealo Falls. If you have the option, I recommend hiking in the direction I describe above. 

Above: Blarney Castle, fun for the whole family.

5. Blarney Castle, County Cork, Ireland

Ever wary of tourist traps, I had real misgivings about paying a visit to this icon of the Emerald Isle. But I am so glad I went! I have never had more fun at a castle, and that is saying a lot. Buried in a rich history, with equal parts mysticism and legend, the Blarney Castle will enchant you as well. Why? 

Blarney Castle has something for everyone: stunning views of the Irish countryside from the castle ramparts, the Blarney Stone, a Murder Hole, a Poison Garden, the Witch's Kitchen, Wishing Steps, secret escape routes, and even a playground for the (big) kids! What more could want? 

Click here for more information. 

Above: O'Brien's Tower at the Cliffs of Moher

4. The Cliffs of Moher, County Clare, Ireland

No visit to Ireland would be complete without a trip to the dramatic Cliffs of Moher. Expect a feast for the senses as you walk the safe and mostly level clifftop trail from O'Brien's Tower to Hag's Head. Gaze at seabirds as they float upon the updraft from the 200 meter cliffs. Listen for the distant sound of the pounding surf as it crashes upon the rocks below. Feel the crisp ocean breeze as you gaze upon the Atlantic Ocean and Aran Islands. 

Camera buffs will have their work cut out for them as the changing light alternately captures and snatches away the essence of the day. My advice? Just walk the trail and enjoy the moment. You will surely take pictures, but don't expect to capture the experience on film. 

Click here for more information. 

Above: The hexagonal stones of Giant's Causeway.

Above: Hexagonal pillars near the Giant's Causeway.

3. Giant's Causeway, County Antrim, Northern Ireland

Like the Cliffs of Moher, Giant's Causeway is another stunning stretch of Irish coastline, but this one happens to be in Northern Ireland. The Causeway was formed from an ancient volcanic eruption, which cooled to form hexagonal columns of basalt. Time and pounding by the relentless Atlantic Ocean have worn the columns, giving the area the appearance of a causeway built by a giant. 

What I loved most about this attraction was the ability to walk the trail alongside the hexagonal columns, which towered like organ pipes well into the distance. The final section of the trail is closed due to active falling rocks. Please respect this barrier, as we witnessed active rockslides during our short visit. 

This site is managed by the National Trust and is free to visitors. Click here for trail information. 

Above: Abbey Island, on the Ring of Kerry

2. The Ring of Kerry, County Kerry, Ireland

The Ring of Kerry is near or at the top of every top 10 list of things to see and do in Ireland...and with good reason. It is nothing short of breathtaking. You could spend days exploring the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle peninsula. But if your time is very limited, I recommend a walk to Abbey Island. 

Here, on one of Ireland's most beautiful beaches, you'll find the remains of Derrynane Abby. Walk among the Christian and Celtic graves, crosses, and tombstones, some of which are centuries old. Notice graves of fishermen and contemplate what life must have been like for them in their time.

Park at Derrynane Beach, and follow the beach path to Abbey Island. The island can only be reached at low tide. 

Above: Hiking the Gap of Dunloe, my favorite activity. 

Above: Me at the Wishing Bridge, Gap of Dunloe, Ireland.

There was a lot of competition for this number 1 slot, but this hike was truly spectacular and well worth the half day it took for us to hike to the Black Valley and back. 

Park in the free parking lot near Kate Kearney's Cottage and walk the paved road to the Head of Dunloe (top of the pass) (6.1km) or to the Black Valley (8.8 km) and return. Be prepared to share the road with horse drawn carriages and perhaps a few sheep, and be sure to make a wish on the wishing bridge! 

Footnote: Both countries drive on the left using right-hand-drive vehicles. However, if you rent a car in Ireland, you must inform your car rental company that you intend to cross into Northern Ireland.