New Zealand

New Zealand- COVID- 19 

At this time, New Zealand is cautiously reopening to international travelers after being closed for just over 2 years. The reopening is being done in stages, allowing only fully vaccinated visitors from visa waiver countries and requiring pre-flight COVID testing and retesting upon arrival. This policy is subject to change, so you'll want to check the NZ government's COVID-19 website for the latest information. 

Know Before You Go: 

Visitors from the UK, US or a visa waiver country listed here must now complete and pay for a New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority (NZeTA) and pay an International Visitor Levy (IVL) prior to visiting NZ. More information can be found here. Don't let these fees prevent you from visiting; together they're only NZD $47.  

New Zealand, South Island: 

This is a destination you'll enjoy if you're an outdoor enthusiast. New Zealand has glacier-carved valleys, fjords, mountains, canyons, waterfalls, caves, geothermal hot springs and other natural wonders that will impress even the most jaded of travelers. 

If you're fit, I recommend trying at least one of their Great Walks as listed in my backpacking section. If you're not up for that, don't despair. This section is for you! The list below includes my Top 10 Attractions in the South Island that can all be enjoyed as part of a multi-day road trip, staying in comfy hotels and sampling local cuisine.   

Ruth's Top 10 Attractions: South Island, New Zealand

Above: A kayaking group stops for lunch at Apple Cove. 

#: 10 Kayaking in Abel Tasman

Kayaking is big in New Zealand, and is a great way to explore one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in the country. If you choose only one kayak experience, I highly recommend kayaking the Abel Tasman. 

Trips vary in length and cost, but all allow you to explore hidden coves, sea caves, and observe fur seals in their island sanctuaries. Virtually all will pace the day's paddling, stopping at pristine beaches to allow time for lunch and a dip in the Tasman Sea.  

Above: A New Zealand fur seal basking in the sun.  

There are several tour operators, offering everything from basic kayak rentals to one-way paddling adventures with water taxi return, to fully catered and guided multi-day trips, with or without allowing you to walk a portion of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. All have similar pricing for similar packages, differing mainly in their offerings and locations. 

The most common departure site for these trips is Marahau, but Golden Bay Kayaks is one that departs from Wainui Bay. Your choice of kayak rental provider will largely be determined by what you want to do, for how long, and your point of origin.  

Three companies, in no particular order are: 

Above: The Kawarau Gorge, near Queenstown, NZ. 

#: 9 Bungy Jumping, Kawarau Gorge   

This is where it all began, with AJ Hackett offering the first commercial bungy jump over the Kawarau Bridge in 1988. 

Back then, jumps cost $75 apiece and thrill seekers from around the world soon began flocking into the area for a chance to experience the heady rush of adrenalin. The price today is $205 per person, but includes free round trip bus transport from Queenstown, if needed. 

Above: Bungy jumper in action, Kawarau Gorge.  

Legend has it that bungy jumping originated on the South Pacific Island of Vanuatu. It's said that a mistreated wife, threw herself from a tall tree, but survived by breaking her fall with vines from the tree. Her husband, meanwhile, plunged to his death. 

The event was re-enacted annually thereafter-- initially only by women-- but men eventually joined in to demonstrate their courage. 

Even with today's ultra strong bungies, safety belts and hard hats, the feat still requires plenty of courage. Many places offer bungy jumping, but in my opinion, the Karawau Gorge is hard to beat. 

Above: A cruise of Milford Sound is not to be missed. 

#8: Boat Tour of Milford Sound

If you've read my advice on South Pacific/Oceania, you know I caution against loading up on tours. This boat tour of Milford Sound is an exception to the rule. Why? The "Sound" is a scenic fjord that is best appreciated by boat. So, to make the 2-hour plus drive here from Te Anau and not go out on the water, would truly be a shame. Book tickets in advance to ensure you get a time that fits your schedule. 

Several tour operators offer different packages to this area. One combines a 2-hour cruise with a guided day walk allowing you to walk a flat portion of the Milford Track. I didn't do this, choosing instead to hike the 33 mile Milford Track. (See Itinerary #5 under backpacking for this itinerary.)  But if you want to experience a taste of the Milford Track in a day hike, I would say this is the way to go! 

Above: Waterfalls abound in this perpetually rainy place.

Some tour operators offer full day excursions from Te Anau or Queenstown, which may be worth the expense given the following considerations: 

So even if you have a rental car, you may want to leave this part of the diving to a professional. 

Click here for tour information on a combination walking, boating tour.  

Click here for a DOC brochure of day walks in the Fjordlands. 

Above: The town of Hanmer Springs, South Island, NZ.  

#: 7 Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools  

If you like hot springs, a stop at Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools is a must on your road trip of the South Island. The 22 thermal pools and spa are open every day of the year, except Christmas Day, and range in temperature from 28C (82.4F) for the lap pool, to 42C (107.6F) for one of the three sulfur pools. 

Admission packages vary from single entry day use tickets to multi-day spa packages with private saunas and steam rooms. Your entry ticket includes unlimited use of the 4  water-slides and 22 thermal pools. 

I found a single entry day use ticket more than adequate, but recommend getting your vigorous activities (like slide climbing and lap swimming) in before you get in the hot pools. Because once you soak in the hot pools, you'll be too lethargic for a workout. 

Above: Image of Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools. 

Know before you go.

Above: Sections of the trail to Fox Glacier are steep. 

#6: Fox Glacier- 

There are 2 glaciers along NZ State Highway 6-- Fox and Franz Josef. They are located within a half-hour's drive of each other. I visited both and found them unique and interesting in their own way.  So, what's the difference?

For one, Fox Glacier is larger than Franz Josef and it is closer to the road. From the parking area, you're looking at a 30 minute walk up a gravel trail to reach the terminal viewing area.  

Above: The valley carved by Fox Glacier. 

From here, your reward is a sweeping view of the deep glacier-carved valley as it opens up to the Tasman Sea. As you walk down the valley, marvel at the height of the sheer walls, which rise sharply on either side of you. Notice the waterfalls which seem to materialize at every turn and fold in the rock. 

Above: The beach at Hokitika, South Island, NZ. 

#: 5 Hokitika  

This lovely little beach town on the windswept west coast of The South Island is one of my favorite resort areas simply because of its wild and wonderful beach. Storms from Antarctica pound the coast leaving behind miles of sand, strewn with driftwood. The result is a long, flat beach ideal for relaxing walks. 

The area is known for greenstone, shipwrecks, and art galleries. It's said that one can surf in Hokitika, but I would leave this to the pros.

Above: The Hokitika River meets the Tasman Sea. 

Enjoy a walk along a paved path that follows the beach and wraps around Sunset Point before passing under the highway and ending. Retrace your steps, or make your way back through town, browsing at art galleries and shops along the way.  

At dusk, check out the glow worms at Glow Worm Dell. The attraction is just off the main highway (NZ 6) and is easily reached on foot if you're staying in town. Stand quietly in this secluded little nook, and in minutes the glow worms will appear.  

On your way out of town, you may want to visit Hokitika Gorge, It is a 33 km (one way) drive to a parking area from where you can also take the 2 km round trip walk along the gorge. 

Above: The Punakaiki Pancake Rocks Trail 

#4: Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowhole Walk

Located in Paparoa National Park, on the west coast of the island, this interesting geological formation has been improved by the Department of Conservation (DOC) to make it safe, tourist friendly and assessable. Walk the easy 1.1 km trail to view the blowhole and feel the salty ocean spray as the surf surges and heaves through rock chasms

Then return to the road and walk north to visit a cavern by the same name. Here, you'll see stalactites and possibly some glow worms. 

You reach the mouth of the cavern by going down one wooden staircase and then going up two more. Make sure to wear good shoes and bring a light with you, as the surface of the cavern is wet and uneven. 

Once you're in the cave, turn off your lights and the glow worms will appear. 

Click here for more information. 

Above: Franz Joseph Glacier, South Island, NZ.  

#3: Franz Joseph Glacier

Of the two glaciers off State Highway 6, Franz Joseph is more visited attraction. The trail did not seem as steep, and seemed to have more waterfalls than that to Fox. 

If you only have time to walk to one glacier, I recommend Franz Joseph because the terminal face of the glacier is located 12 miles from the Tasman Sea. So you have to wind your way up the valley a bit just to reach the parking area. 

Above: Notice the many waterfalls as you approach the glacier. 

This puts you deeper into the mountains and you are quickly surrounded by waterfalls at every turn. 

The trail takes between 90 minutes and 2 hours to hike, round trip and takes you through a lovely, valley that looks like a backdrop for a scene out of Lord of the Rings. (This shouldn't surprise you once you know that the entire trilogy was filmed exclusively in New Zealand using over 150 locations in both the North and South Islands.)

Above: Another fine view from the Abel Tasman Coastal Track.  

#2: Day Hike on the Abel Tasman Track

More than 20 years after Tourism New Zealand launched its "100% Pure New Zealand" marketing campaign, visitors continue to flock to this corner of the world to explore its unspoiled wilderness. In my backpacking section, I detail my five favorite backpacking trips, three of which are in the South Island of New Zealand.

If you want a taste of these wild and wonderful places, but didn't bring your gear or couldn't get reservations, don't despair. 

You can still have a load of fun by doing a day hike on many of the Great Walk Trails. 

Above: Me exploring lovely Anchorage Bay.  

This section details a day hike from Marahau to Anchorage Bay, with a water taxi return. The trail is 12.4 km (7.7 mi) one way and takes about 4 hours. With stops, lunch and photos, it took us almost six! 

You begin early in the day, by parking in the Marahau car park, and hike along the Abel Tasman Coastal Trail until you reach the Anchorage Hut. (If you were backpacking, this would be your end destination for the first day.) Spend what's left of the day at this idyllic little bay and catch a 4 PM water taxi back to Marahau. 

Advantages of a day hike are: 

Please note: You must pre-book your water taxi back to your point of origin. Several companies offer this service. Click the link above for sample prices and a timetable.  

Above: The Mitre Peak (left), Milford Sound 

#1: Milford Sound 

Located in Fjordlands National Park, in the southwest corner of the South Island, Milford Sound is reached by means of the Homer Tunnel-- a 1.2 km, single-lane tunnel that is monitored by traffic lights. Before the tunnel was opened in 1953 to link Milford Sound with Queenstown and Te Anau, this remote area was largely cut off from the rest of the world.  

The experience of emerging from the west end of the tunnel into a verdant world of lush vegetation gives one the impression of having stepped back in time. 

And indeed you have. But for the lack of birdsong and the addition of a road, some buildings, and a quay, this area is said to be little changed for the last 1000 years. 

Above: The Cleddau River carves its way to the Sound.

Walk along the quay and enjoy the ambience of the area. Have lunch or a snack at the cafe and send yourself a postcard from this remote corner of the earth. 

As you're driving out, stop at any sites you may have missed on the way in, including The Chasm Walk. This easy half-mile pathway contains two bridges spanning the Cleddau River. Gaze upon chasms and rounded pockets carved by swirling boulders and pounding waterfalls to gain an appreciation for the sculpting powers of water. Feel the bridge shake under the relentless force of the waterfalls as they carve the The Chasm ever deeper.  

Parking for this walk is located about half-way from the Milford Sound Visitor Terminal to the Homer Tunnel. 

Click here for more information. 

Please note that the Chasm Walk is closed at this time. Check back with the DOC for the latest information.