Backpacking
When many people think of backpacking, they envision young adults on extended trips to exotic locations. All their gear-- clothing, accessories, toiletries, daypack and sleep sack-- is contained in a single backpack and lugged between destinations. The purpose of such trips can be anything from discovering the world to discovering themselves. Itineraries are flexible, budgets tight, and cultural immersion intense. It is usually a time of great personal growth. This type of long-term, nomadic backpacking is NOT what I'll be discussing below. (For information on the above, consult Rough Guides or Lonely Planet-- the two most well-known authorities on the subject.) What I will be discussing below are short-term (up to 5 days) backpacking trips.
So, why would anyone want to haul all their stuff around, up and down canyons, stairs, and mountain passes, through rain and snow, while being eaten alive by sand flies and mosquitoes? And...in case you're not hooked yet, bad coffee! In fact, as I write this web page, the blisters on both feet are in various stages of healing from a 60km, 4 day tramp of New Zealand's Milford Track. That's right. Less than 2 weeks ago, as I picked my way down the slick, moss-covered rocks that comprised the "trail" from McKinnon pass, I swore I would never go on another backpacking trip again. So why do we do this?
The short answer is, to appreciate everything else. Like soft beds, automobiles, the screens on our windows which let air in, but keep the bugs out, and even 2-ply toilet paper! While it's not something I want to do every month or even year, I'm appreciative for the experiences I've had and have a few recommendations...even if you only go on one backpacking trip in your life, I recommend you do at least one if you're fit.
I've organized this section by creating a list of do's and don'ts, a rough backpacking list which can be modified based on your terrain, and suggested itineraries with website links.
There are also certain experiences you just can't get from a car or even a day hike. For example, did you know that the Grand Canyon gets about 6 million visitors per year, but only a handful of these venture below the rim? Yet, it is truly impossible to appreciate the beauty of the Canyon without doing precisely that. Click here for more information and to plan your visit.
And if you're a Lord of the Rings fan, you already know that the movies were filmed in various locations throughout New Zealand. What you might not know, is that many scenic areas in NZ are only accessible by hiking, water taxi or a combination of the two.
To this end, New Zealand's Department of Conservation (DOC) maintains a network of nearly 13,000 kilometers of marked trails with more than 950 huts located along these routes. Amenities vary, but all serve the essential role of providing shelter from the elements in a region known for its capricious weather.
Nine of premiere trails—including the Abel Tasman, the Routeburn and the Milford—are designated as Great Walks. As such, they tend to offer more features and require reservations.
12 Backpacking Do's & Don'ts
1. DO: Go light! Remember, everything in your pack has to be carried by your knees and feet for the next few days. Water is a necessity, food you're not going to eat is not.
2. DO carry a water filter if there are water sources along your route. This will save you from having to carry excess supply.
3. DO dress in layers which can be easily shed or donned.
4. DO use hiking poles (or used ski poles from a thrift shop.) They are particularly useful for balancing yourself when you're crossing streams and hopping between boulders. They have saved us on countless occasions.
5. DO expect rain; invest in a waterproof backpack cover. I have never been on a backpacking trip where it did not rain at least 1 day. Period.
6. DO make sure your backpack is comfortable and sized for you.
7. Don't carry anything metal. You may need one small cooking pan, but get the lightest one you can get away with.
8. DO bring an extra power cell to recharge your phone camera but...
9. Don't rely on your phone as a flashlight. Even better, opt for a headlamp. This frees your hands for your hiking poles.
10. DO carry mosquito repellent and hydrocortisone cream.
11. DO have a specific place for everything in your backpack and consistently put things back in their place.
12. DO yourself a favor and choose a backpack with a zippered "belly." (See my packing video below.)
Backpacking List for Drive.docxSuggested backpacking trips
I'm not much of a backpacker. That said, when I have stretched myself and gone beyond my comfort zone, I've been richly rewarded by breathtaking beauty, a sense of accomplishment, and a renewed appreciation for all that I have. Two of my favorite US itineraries are listed below, and the next three are in the South Island of New Zealand. If you want to see explore the South Island, but would rather do it by car or RV, check out my section on South Pacific/Oceana for suggested road trips.
Above: Me on the Bright Angel Trail
Grand Canyon, AZ, USA
When I saw the Grand Canyon for the first time, I was 27 years old. It was 19 degrees Fahrenheit outside and the grey clouds cast a dark hue on the canyon, rendering it various shades of brown and grey. I was unimpressed and wanted to get warm more than anything else.
It wasn't until 16 years later, when my then teenage son happened upon a copy of National Geographic Adventure Magazine featuring the epic rim-to-rim hike of the Canyon, that I was compelled to try backpacking.
Our first multi-day hike is Itinerary #1 below. We went from the South rim to Bright Angel Campground and back to the South Rim over 4 nights. It was, by backpacking standards, a mere stroll, never exceeding 8 miles in a single day.
Above: Venture below the rim to discover the Grand Canyon's treasures.
If you're reasonably fit, it is not too difficult to hike from the South Rim to the river in a single day. But what would be the point?
The link below connects you with a wealth of information for planning your trip. Among the resources is a preparatory video created by the National Park Service. If there was one take-away point I got from their video, it was to not rush the experience. Relax and savor the cathedral-like peace of this very special place. You'll find the video by visiting the National Park Service's website.
And if you're not sold yet, you'll get the itch to lace up your hiking boots when you review their Introduction to Backcountry Hiking.
All camping below the rim requires backcountry permits and/or advance reservations, which you can get from the backcountry permit office.
Grand Canyon National Park Backpacking Itineraries
Click here for a trail guide of the Bright Angel Trail.
Itinerary #1: South Rim to Colorado River, round trip via Bright Angel Trail.
Total time: 5 days, 4 nights Distance: 18.6 mi
This is a nice trail for families who just want to get a feel for the canyon or those who have never backpacked before. The first few miles of this trail hug sheer canyon walls as a series of well-maintained switchbacks descend into the canyon. The views are nothing short of spectacular, luring the hiker deeper into the canyon with each turn.
Above: Descending the Redwall on the Bright Angel Trail.
The trail gentles as you move from the Redwall Cliffs, across the Tonto Platform to the relative oasis of Indian Gardens, down into the inner gorge and on to the Colorado River.
Day 1: South Rim to Indian Gardens Campground.
Start at Bright Angel Lodge, take the Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens, set up camp and take an evening stroll to Plateau Point & back.
Drinking water is seasonally available (May-October) at:
the trailhead,
Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse,
Three-Mile Resthouse,
Indian Gardens, and
Bright Angel Campground.
Above: Douse your head with water to stay cool.
Day 2: Indian Gardens to Bright Angel Campground. Stay 2 nights to rest.
On day two, you’ll descend the Inner Gorge to the Colorado River, where you’ll set up camp for two nights at Bright Angel Campground.
Tip: If you hike this trail in late summer, expect to feel a furnace-like blast of heat radiating off the inner gorge as you make your way the final few miles down to the river. Dousing your head with water will help you stay cool.
Day 3: Enjoy your "rest" day by hiking around the canyon bottom, doing the loop from the Bright Angel Trail to the South Kaibab Trail, and back over the mule bridge to Phantom Ranch. Then explore the North Kaibab trail as it winds its way up to Cottonwood Campground.
Stop in at the Phantom Ranch Canteen to enjoy the swamp cooler and swap stories with other hikers over a glass of lemonade..
Attend one of the excellent evening ranger programs
Above: My sons and I at the canteen.
Day 4: Colorado River to Indian Gardens
Today you’ll break camp and take the Bright Angel Trail back to Indian Gardens. If you missed seeing Plateau Point on your way down, you can consider resting and doing this as an evening hike tonight. The view of the Inner Gorge is truly fantastic, so this side trip should not be missed.
Above: Resting at Indian Gardens Campground
5: Indian Gardens to South Rim
Now for the long pull out. Set out early or after 3PM if hiking in summer. Hike with your head wet if it's hot and remind yourself that there are showers, ice cream and cold beer waiting for you at the top!
Above: My brave sis preparing for the hike out
Variations: This itinerary can be shortened by hiking out in a single day (which I’ve done), but remember that the steepest part of the trail is near the top of the cliffs (i.e. the first 1.6 miles) and you do not want to be hiking this from 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM in the summer.
Itinerary #2: North Rim to South Rim via Bright Angel Trail ("The Epic")
Total time: 6 days, 5 nights Distance: 23.9 mi
Click here for a trail guide of the North Kaibab Trail.
Above: The Bright Angel Trail
This is a more ambitious itinerary, subjecting you to almost 7 miles of down, down, down the first day of the hike when your backpack is full. That said, every source we consulted recommended through hiking in the north-to-south direction. Why?
Above: A section of the North Kaibab Trail.
1) The North Rim sits at an elevation of 8,240 ft, the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail is at an elevation of 6,840 ft. Hiking out of the canyon is challenging enough without having to fight the higher altitude and a 15-20% uphill grade.
2) Drinking water is seasonally available at various locations along the Bright Angel Trail from Indian Gardens up.
3) There are more services at the South Rim than the North and there is nothing like a nice meal after a hike to reward you for your efforts.
Day 1: South Rim to North Rim via shuttle.
Catch the noon Trans-canyon shuttle from Bright Angel Lodge to drive you to the North Rim of the GC (5 hrs, $90/pp).
The NPS allows backpackers who are hiking out the next day to camp in a designated backpacker area even when the North Rim campsites are full ($10/pp).
The Grand Canyon Lodge has various lodging options, ranging from motel rooms to Western Cabins with canyon views. However, at about $300/night with uncomfortable beds and paper thin walls, I cannot recommend them.
Above: Enjoying the view from the North Rim
Day 2: North Rim to Cottonwood.
Today you'll descend more than 4000 feet and cover 6.8 miles. Hike down the North Kaibab trail and at the 2.6 mile point, you'll cross the scenic Redwall Bridge as it spans Roaring Springs Canyon.
Above: The Redwall Bridge of the North Kaibab Trail
At the 4.7 mile point, the Roaring Springs Canyon meets up with the Bright Angel Canyon. Here you'll find Roaring Springs-- a great place to stop for a lunch and soak your feet in the cool stream.
This "Roaring" natural spring provides water for all visitors and residents of the Grand Canyon and the nearby town of Tusayan.
Above: Me soaking my feet at Roaring Springs.
From there continue another 2.1 miles to Cottonwood Campground, where you will make camp for the night.
Spend the afternoon wading in the creek and enjoying the serenity of the canyon.
Days 3 & 4: Cottonwood to the River.
Hike the mostly flat 7.2 miles remaining to Bright Angel Campground.
Spend 2 nights to rest and explore the area as suggested in Itinerary #1.
Day 5: River to Indian Gardens.
Either hike out to the South rim via the Bright Angel Trail, or hike to Indian Gardens, spend the night there, and hike out the next day. If you haven't seen Plateau Point (3 miles round trip from Indian Gardens) consider the latter.
Though the South Kaibab is the shortest way to the river from the South Rim, it is a steep trail and there is no water. So if you decide to hike down this way (as a variation of Itinerary #1) I still recommend you hike out via the Bright Angel Trail.
South Island, New Zealand Backpacking Itineraries
Itinerary #3 Abel Tasman Coastal Walk
Total time: 5 days Distance: 60 km
Above: An estuary on the Abel Tasman Trail.
Description: Considered the easiest and most rewarding of New Zealand's Great Walks, this walk follows the coastline through Abel Tasman National Park. Expect stunning water views, pristine estuaries (left), lush beech forest and seasonally... sandflys and mosquitos.
Click here for a trail brochure.
General: All Great Walk Huts require advance bookings. Book well in advance as entire seasons for the most popular routes often sell out in hours.
Day 1: Marahau to Anchorage Hut.
Begin at Marahau car park and hike 12.4km, about 4 hours to the Anchorage Hut. This hut sits on a lovely bay with interesting rocks and caves to explore.
Day 2: Anchorage Hut to Bark Bay.
From Anchorage Hut, hike either 11.5 km (4 hrs) or 8.3 km (3 hrs) to Bark Bay. This trail crosses mud flats which can be crossed on foot at low tide. At high tide, you'll have to hike around the bay, hence the 1 hour time difference.
About 1 hour after you leave the Anchorage Hut on your way to Bark Bay, you'll see a turnoff to Cleopatra's Pools.
These pools are a series of freshwater cascading pools complete with a moss-lined chute which makes a natural water slide. The pools are cold, but even if you just bask on the rocks and take photos, I highly recommend the stop.
Day 3: Bark Bay to Awaroa Hut.
Hike 13.5 km (4 1/2 hrs) to Awaroa Hut. Tonga Quarry makes an ideal place to have lunch, have a swim or just hang out. Remember, if you're doing this trail in 5 days, you don't need to rush.
Day 4: Awaroa Hut to Whariwharangi Hut.
From Awaroa Hut, hike 16.9 km (5 1/2 hrs) to Whariwharangi Hut. This leg of the trip must be timed with the tides, as Awaroa Inlet can only be crossed between 90 minutes prior to or 120 minutes after low tide...and there is no alternative route.
Day 5: Hike out. From the Whariwharangi Hut, you can either hike to Wainui Bay and the car park, or you can hike back to Totaranui. We chose to take a pre-booked water taxi from Totaranui back to Marahau. One way fares are $54 NZ and require My Vaccine Pass at the time of this writing.
Above: The Routeburn Valley.
Itinerary #4: The Routeburn Track
Total time: 3 days Distance: 33.1km
Level of Difficulty: Intermediate
Description: The Routeburn Track is a one-way alpine trek through the majestic Southern Alps. It begins at the Routeburn Shelter car park, ascends up a stunning glacier-carved valley, over the Harris Saddle and down to the Divide. The trail spans Mount Aspiring and Fjordlands National Parks, and can be hiked in either direction. However, please note that the trailheads are 325 km apart, so you must pre-arrange your transportation into and out of the area, or arrange to have your car relocated by one of the many car relocation services.
We used Easy Hike and the car was waiting for us as promised.
For a trail guide click here.
This trail should be hiked in summer only because snow can occur at any time of the year. As a case in point, we did the hike in early February and missed white out conditions over the Harris Saddle (4,117 ft) by one day!
Above: Warning signs alert hikers of alpine conditions, changeable weather.
Above: The climb from Routeburn Valley to the Hut
Day 1: Routeburn Shelter & car park to Routeburn Falls Hut.
Beginning at the Routeburn Shelter and car park, hike 9.8km (3-4 hrs) to the Routeburn Falls Hut. The first part of the hike follows the Routeburn River, then crosses it by way of a suspension bridge. From there, you wind your way up the valley wall toward Routeburn Falls.
Much of this first day is up, but you are rewarded with incredible views of the valley. As you continue to ascend, the beech forest thickens, until the Routeburn Falls Hut is literally upon you.
The Hut sits spectacularly perched on a shelf below the falls, giving it the surreal appearance of a luxurious treehouse.
Above: The Routeburn Falls Hut, DOC photo.
Day 2: Routeburn Falls Hut to Lake Mackenzie Hut
Today you'll hike alongside the falls and continue up the valley through tussock-covered flats. A gentle ascent takes you up and over the Harris Saddle (1,255meters), and then you'll hike along the exposed Hollyford Face of a valley by the same name to reach Lake Mackenzie and your home for the night.
Since it was cloudy and raining the day we traversed the pass, we were happy just to be missing the brunt of an early-February snow storm and glad to see the trail.
Day 3: Mackenzie Hut to the Divide car park
On this last day, you will leave the Mackenzie Hut, climb to the bush line, then descend past Earland Falls to The Divide.
A popular side trip-- which we would have done had the weather been clear-- is a 90 minute side trip to Key Summit. This vantage point is said to offer sweeping views of the fjordlands and alpine lakes.
Above: Along the Routeburn Track.
Itinerary #5: The Milford Track
Total time: 4 days Distance: 53.5km
Difficulty level: Intermediate
Description: Billed to be "the finest walk in the world", the Milford Track is ranked as an intermediate level hike. That said, severe weather in this part of the world-- which can occur even in prime hiking season-- can put even experienced hikers to the test. This is also the most popular of the Great Walks so book early.
Above: Me at the Clinton River, Milford Track, NZ.
The trail begins at Glade Wharf and follows the Clinton River through pristine beech forest. A steady climb takes you over McKinnon Pass, which is followed by an even steeper descent through lush rain forest. The final day follows a mostly level trail to Sandfly Point-- the end of the hike and your meeting point for the 20 minute boat ride back to Milford Sound Wharf.
This trail can only be hiked in one direction, and you must pre-arrange your huts and your transportation to and from the trailheads.
This means motor transport to Te Anau Downs, the boat ride across Lake Te Anau to Glade Wharf, the boat shuttle from Sandfly Point, and the motor transport back to your point of origin.
Companies like Tracknet will provide transportation from either Te Anau or Queenstown starting at $240 per person.
Above: Leaving Te Anau Downs for the 1 hr, 15 min boat ride to Glade Wharf.
Day 1: Te Anau Downs to Clinton Hut (5 km)
Arrive in time to meet your shuttle to Te Anau Downs, where you will catch your ride across Lake Te Anau to Glade Wharf. This is the starting point for the Milford Track, and once there you'll follow the trail through pristine beech forest as it hugs the Clinton River. After about 5km (1.5 hrs), you'll reach the Clinton Hut. Drop off your pack and you have the rest of the day to explore the surrounding area.
Above: Inside the Clinton Hut
Day 2: Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut (17.5 km, 6 hrs)
Today, you'll be dwarfed by sheer rock walls as you ascend through the Clinton Valley to the river's source. The climb is steady but gentle, unless its been altered by Mother Nature (e.g. landslides.) Rest up tonight at the Mintaro Hut.
Above: The Clinton Valley
Day 3: Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut (13 km, 7 hrs)
Today, you'll continue up the Clinton Valley, making your way over the McKinnon Pass and past the memorial to explorer Quintin McKinnon-- the explorer who co-discovered the Milford Track you are now hiking.
Above: Approaching McKinnon Pass
From here, the trail descends rapidly to the valley floor. Expect moss-covered wooden stairs, covered with chicken wire and wooden slats to prevent hikers from slipping.
I found this part challenging and was so exhausted after 4 hours of this that I almost gave Southerland Falls a miss.
Above: The descent from McKinnon Pass.
Above: Steeper areas require stairs.
That said, push yourself and you won't be disappointed. Southerland Falls, at 1904 feet is one of New Zealand's highest waterfalls and well worth the effort.
Above: Don't miss the side trip to Southerland Falls (1904 ft)- one of New Zealand's highest.
Day 4: Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point (18 km, 6 hrs)
Today, you'll leave the Dumpling Hut and follow the trail along the Arthur River to the Boatshed Hut. The Hut will keep you out of the elements while you await your boat ride to Milford Sound, and once there, you'll catch your motor shuttle to your point of origin and hot showers!
Above: Back at Milford Sound Wharf
I wish I had some stunning pictures to share with you, but they are conspicuously absent for this 18 km stretch of the trail as the area was experiencing widespread flooding on the day we hiked out. My sister and I forded mid-thigh deep rain-swollen creeks and rivers, locked arm in arm with fellow backpackers to avoid being airlifted out of there. That said, I'm glad I did it, even more glad I survived it, and can't wait to do it again!