Switzerland

The Swiss Travel Pass: 

This is my exception to my rule of choosing  point-to-point train fares over train passes. I make this exception because there are many beautiful little towns in Switzerland which are otherwise unreachable except by rail. But if you ride the train often, point-to-point fares can easily exceed the cost of a rail pass. 

The Swiss Travel Pass comes in 3,4,6, 8 and 15 consecutive day periods and affords you: 

• unlimited traveling on buses, boats and trains

• free entrance to over 500 museums

• discounts on rides to mountaintops (Rigi, Stoos & Stanserhorn included.) 

You purchase this pass before you arrive in Switzerland, specifying the validity dates at the time of purchase. The pass automatically becomes active on your dates. Prices for the 15-day pass at this writing are 429 CHF (~$500) for 2nd class and 675 CHF (~$780) for 1st class. 

Seat reservations are required on two panoramic routes-- the Glacier Express and the Bernina Express. This is an extra charge and must be made in advance. 

The main advantage of 1st class over 2nd is that in general the cars are less crowded, so seat reservations in 1st class may still be available on panoramic routes when 2nd class has sold out.  For more information on the Swiss Travel Pass contact Switzerland Travel Centre. 

Advantages of the pass are:

• flexibility to travel when you want (within the valid time period.  

• no waiting in ticket lines (for most trains)

Disadvantages of the pass are:

• Large up-front per person expense, so may not make sense for families

• Does not cover many mountain railways or gondolas

Now that you know the basics, read on for my 17-day "dream" itinerary for Switzerland. The cost of $3750 pp/do includes $900 for airfare, $500 for a 2nd class Swiss Travel Pass, half the cost of a $225/night rental, and that you do everything suggested. You can save even more if you get your lodgings and airfare for less. 

Stroll over the Chapel Bridge-- constructed in the first half of the 14th century. Then continue on to Spreuer Bridge (Spreuerbrücke), the oldest timber bridge in Switzerland. It was completed in 1408 as part of the city's fortifications and is famous for 67 paintings depicting the Dance Macabre.  

Night 1 of 3 in Lucerne

Then spend an hour or two walking through the Glacier Garden Museum to learn about glacial potholes and other rock features carved by time and melting glaciers. Have lunch at the museum's bistro (or at your lodging) to get you ready for your afternoon loop at Mt Rigi. 

After lunch, head over to the main boat dock, Bahnhofquai, and take a boat to Vitznau. Then take a cogwheel train (about 1 hr) to the summit, Rigi Kulm.

Enjoy a 360 degree view of the surrounding area from the viewing platform. Descend via cogwheel train (or walk) to Rigi Kaltbad, transfer to cable car to Weggis, and take a 15-minute walk to the Weggis boat dock. From there you can catch a ferry back to your starting point.

Note: The Mt. Rigi loop can easily be reversed as shown on this map. Just keep your eye on the ferry schedule back to Luzern Bahnhofquai. 

Night 2 of 3 in Lucerne

Built in the late 1400s, Museggmauer is considered one of the longest and best preserved defensive structures in Switzerland. It's nine towers connected by 30 foot-tall walls and a series of walkways posed a formidable barrier to would-be invaders for centuries. Today, four of the the towers-- Männli, Heu (or Watch), Zyt, and Schirmer--  are open to the public and offer wonderful views of the Lucerne environs. 

Tip: The site opens at 0800; if you're visiting during the summer heat, go early and bring a water bottle.  

Check out and head to Luzern Haupbahnhoff to catch a train to Interlaken. 

Trains from Luzern take 2 hours to reach Interlaken. There are two train stations- Ost and West-- but not all trains stop at West. All the trains we took departed from Ost, so consider this when choosing accommodations. Check in to your new place or store your luggage at the station. 

This afternoon, you'll ride the Harderbahn funicular to Harder Kulm to admire Interlaken from the Two Lakes Bridge. Harderbahn station is a 5-minute walk from Interlaken Ost station; you'll see it as you look across the Aare River. 

Your Swiss Travel Pass gets you a 50% discount, making the cost of this 10-minute ride 20 CHF ($23 USD.) 

Once at the top, step out onto the  Two Lakes Bridge for a panorama of the Interlaken area. Lake Thun is on the right and Lake Brienz on the left. If the weather is clear, you also will have impressive views of the "big three" (aka The Eiger, Mönch, and The Jungfrau) mountains. Spend some time soaking up the alpine air before retracing your steps to town. 

Note: There is a panoramic restaurant at Harderkulm, but its reviews are mixed. On the other hand, there are several good and reasonably priced Indian restaurants in town, so you may want to save your appetite. 

Interlaken night 1 of 4

Day 5: The Schilthorn, Murren & Trummelbach Falls

Today you'll use the Schilthornbahn in Stechelberg to reach The Schilthorn-- a mountain peak featured in the 1969 James Bond film, On Her Majesty's Secret Service. On the way, you'll stop at the towns of Gimmelwald, Mürren and Birg and will want to allow time in your schedule to explore these delightful mountain villages. 

Take a train to Lauterbrunnen station, then transfer to a bus to the Stetchelberg Hotel, From here, you'll board a gondola to Mürren via Gimmelwald. Return tickets to Schilthorn cost 42.80 CHF. 

Trummelbach Falls (Trümmelbachfälle), Lauterbrunnen Valley

The Lauterbrunnen Valley is known for its 72 waterfalls. But one of the most interesting is the subterranean waterfall of Trummelbachfälle. This cascade is the sole snowmelt for the Jungfrau, and understanding that the latter is the tallest mountain in Europe helps explain the sheer force of this natural phenomenon. 

Catch a bus from the Stechelberg Hotel for the 9 minute ride to Trümmelbachfälle to see the only underground waterfall in the world accessible by elevator, footpaths, tunnels, platforms and galleries. 

Today you'll spend the day visiting one of the tallest mountains in Europe. Called The Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch literally translates to "maiden's saddle" and refers to the saddle formed by the Jungfrau and the Mönch.

While the view from the top is amazing, the trip up there is even more so. The cogwheel train that takes you from Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch passes through several tunnels, the longest of which is 7 km. It passes through the Eiger to the Mönch to terminate at Jungfraujoch. At an elevation of 11,362 ft,, Jungfraujoch is the highest railway station in Europe. 

The railway was conceived by industrialist Adolf Guyer-Zeller in 1893; it took 16 years to complete and began transporting tourists to Jungfraujoch in 1912. 

Know Before You Go: 

• Expect to pay about 170 CHF (~ $200) with your Swiss Travel Pass for return tickets to Junfraujoch. This is the single most expensive excursion of this 17-day trip. If you're on a very tight budget, you may want to skip it entirely. 

• When purchasing your tickets, you'll be asked to estimate your time at the top; 1.5-2 hours is about right. 

• You are traveling to a height of 13, 642 ft; expect cold and dress appropriately. 

• If you're staying in Interlaken, leave early because getting to Jungfraujoch takes 2.5 hours each way. 

• For interesting information about the building of Jungfraubahn click here. 

Interlaken night 3 of 4

Day 7 Your choice: Day Trip to Bern or The Aare River Gorge (Aareschlucht)

I suggest doing either this or the day trip to Bern simply because they are in opposite directions from Interlaken. This impressive gorge was formed over the last 150,000 years as a result of glacial melt and erosion.  

Reach the Gorge by taking the train from Interlaken Ost to Meiringen or Aareschlucht West. Follow the signs to the West Entrance. Entrance is 10 CHF and Swiss Travel Pass is not accepted. Allow at least 2 hours to walk through the canyon to the end, then retrace your steps to the West Entrance. 

 Interlaken night 4 of 4

Day 7: Alternate: Day Trip to Bern 

Suggested sites for Bern include: 

Bern Bear Park: The Bärengraben, Bear Pit, is an open enclosure housing bears in the Swiss capital of Bern. Bern's relationship with bears dates back to 1513 when Bernese soldiers captured a live bear after the Battle of Novara and brought it back to the city. The bear was kept alive in the city's moat. This was the city's first makeshift bear pit and the city has had one ever since.  (Free) 

Einstein House- Albert Einstein lived in Bern from 1903-1905 and developed his Theory of Relativity while working at the federal patent office here. The Einstein House gives visitors the chance to see where the great physicist spent his annus mirabilis (extraordinary year) of productivity which completely revolutionized our understanding of space and time. (discounted entry fee of $5.50 w/Swiss Travel Pass.) 

Zytglogge landmark Medieval tower built in 1218. Over the centuries it has served the city as a clock tower, guard tower, prison, civic memorial, and center of urban life. 

Bern Old Town- UNESCO World Heritage Site with arcaded walkways, fountains and Switzerland's tallest cathedral. Walk the Old City with its narrow winding streets as it is formed by a bend in the Alsace River. 

Interlaken night 4 of 4

Day 8: Golden Pass to Montreux- Chillon Castle

Check out of your Interlaken property and board a Golden Pass train (labeled "PE") from either Interlaken Ost or West to Montreux via Zweisimmen. This panoramic route does not require seat reservations; you'll know you've selected the correct train if your route takes over 3-hours with no stops.   

This section of the Golden Pass traverses the lake region of the Bernese Oberland, before climbing over the Swiss Alps through Gstaad to the town of Montreux on the eastern shore of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman).  

The castle gets its name from the rocky, oval-shaped  island upon which it was built-- "chlllon" meant "rocky platform" in an ancient language. The castle itself dates back to the 10th century, but it is thought to have been a military site long before this. Site excavations conducted in the 19th century found artifacts dating back to the Bronze age (3300-1200 BC).   

Entry into this attraction is free with your Swiss Travel Pass, but you'll want to spend $6 for the audio guides. 

Allow 1-2 hours to explore the castle, then spend your afternoon walking the promenade (des Fleurs) to orient yourself to this beautiful resort town. 

Montreux night 1 of 2

Day 9: Day trip Montreux--> Gruyères 

Today you'll use your Swiss Travel Pass for a day trip to the quaint medieval town of Gruyères. As you exit the train station, follow the signs up through the cobblestone streets. When you reach the top, you'll have arrived at Gruyères Castle. 

This walled, fort-like structure is protected by a keep, a tower and small overhanging turrets at its corners. It was built between 1270 and 1282 as a home for the ruling counts and remained in their family until the bankruptcy of Count Michel in 1554.  

Today it is owned by the canton of Fribourg and is open to the public. Some rooms are outfitted with period furnishings to depict life in the medieval period. 

Entrance is included with your Swiss Travel Pass, but you'll want to spend a nominal fee to purchase an audio guide. Allow 1-2 hours to wander the gardens and climb the towers for great views of the countryside. 

This car-free town became a popular tourist destination following the initial tragic ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865. (It is also the mountain after which Disneyland's Matterhorn was modeled.) 

Note: Most trains require you to change in Brig. Try to sit near the window on the left side of the train, as the scenery up the valley is incredible.

Drop your bags at your new accommodations, shop for essential groceries, then head over to the  Matterhorn Museum-Zermatlantis to learn about the triumphs and tragedies that made it famous. Plan to spend 1 to 1 ½ hours at the museum, then lace up your hiking boots to explore the well-maintained trails for picture postcard views of this lovely valley.

Zermatt night 1 of 2 

Then catch a descending train to Riffleberg, have lunch and either hike to Zermatt, or just hike to Rifflealp and catch a train back to Zermatt.

Zermatt night 2 of 2

Day 11: Zermatt- Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (Option b) 

You purchase tickets for this gondola from a ticket booth in town. To reach the ticket booth, walk up the valley, following signs for Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. The ticket offices are about a 20-minute walk from the main rail station and are well marked. Tickets cost 95.00 CHF with your Swiss Travel Pass. 

Like other gondola rides, the spectacular views of the valley as your cable car whisks you over treetops, canyons and waterfalls is really what you've come to see. The entire journey takes just 9 minutes and requires gondola changes at Furi and Trockener Steg. 

At the top, there is a cinema exhibit, a gift shop, restaurant, and an "ice palace" with ice sculptures. At an altitude of 12,740 ft. (3883 m), this station has the distinction of being Europe's highest mountain station, and you will feel it right away if you engage in any physical exertion. 

I suggest snapping a few photos, checking out the ice sculptures and cinema (if you have any interest), then riding down to Trockneer Steg. Disembark from the gondola here and hike to Schwarzsee to enjoy a leisurely outdoor lunch. Then spend the afternoon walking down perfectly groomed trails to Zermatt. Hiking doesn't get any better than this!

Night 2 of 2 Zermatt

Day 12: Glacier Express- Zermatt to St. Moritz

Today you’ll depart Zermatt and board the Glacier Express to St. Moritz. This epic panoramic train journey, billed as the “slowest express train in the world”, covers 300km at a leisurely 8-hour pace. It has two daily departures: 08:52 and 09:52, and arrives in St. Moritz at 4:32 or 5:32 PM, respectively. (The crew changes trains mid-route to return home.) Lunch is available on the train, or you can bring your own food on board. Guided narration is provided to guests via headphones when the train passes through regions of historical interest. 

Know before you go:

• Your Swiss Travel Pass covers the cost of the ticket, but

• Seat reservations are mandatory, cost 49 CHF and can be made up to 93 days in advance. 

• St. Moritz is straight up! Use the escalator to your left as you exit the train station to reach the main part of town.

Check into your lodging for the night and spend the evening strolling among shops selling private jets, cashmere sweaters, and gold. I’ll be at Migros buying dinner😊

Note: While it is possible to cover the Glacier Express train route using local trains, the Glacier Express panoramic trains are the only trains than do not require changes.  

Night 1 of 1 St. Moritz

Day 13: Bernina Express: St. Moritz to Lugano via Tirano 

Use the escalator this morning to return to the train station, where you will catch The Bernina Express train to Tirano, Italy. This panoramic train leaves St. Moritz at 09:17 and arrives in Tirano, Italy at 11:32. (There are later trains, but only this one will get you to Tirano in time to have lunch, and catch the 2:20PM bus to Lugano. See below for booking information.) 

This rail line was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 and is considered a masterpiece of engineering for the way it combines beauty with practicality. 

Sit back and take in the scenery as this narrow-gauge train traverses 196 bridges, 55 tunnels and the famous Brusio viaduct spiral as it navigates the steep descent from the Swiss Alps to Tirano, Italy.  

Board your pre-booked bus at 2:20 PM, for a 3-hour bus ride to Lugano, Switzerland.  

Know before you go:

• The Bernina Express from St. Moritz to Lugano consists of two parts: 

  • a train ride from St. Moritz to Tirano, Italy, and 

  • a bus ride from Tirano, Italy to Lugano, Switzerland. 

• Your Swiss Travel Pass covers the cost of the Bernina Express train tickets, but

• Seat reservations are mandatory and cost 26 CHF for the train and 16 CHF for the bus. 

• You need the 09:17 train departure from St. Moritz to Tirano and the 2:20 PM bus departure from Tirano, Italy to Lugano, Switzerland. 

• Both parts are booked separately from Rhaetian Railway.  

The bus ride takes just over 3 hours, so you’ll arrive in Lugano at about 5:30PM. 

Settle into your new lodgings, stopping at the grocery store for essentials as needed. Tomorrow you can explore this lake town at your leisure.

Night 1 of 2 Lugano

Consider walking the lakefront from Parco Ciani to Giardino Belvedere, then using your Swiss Travel Pass to hop on a lake cruise. You can embark at either Debarcadero Giardino or Debarcadero Centrale, disembark at an Italian port for lunch, and return to Lugano in the evening. 

Day 15: Return to Zurich

Today you'll use your final day of the Swiss Travel Pass to travel back to Zurich for your flight home tomorrow.

 Depending on your interests and energy level, you can:

• enjoy another day in Lugano and take a late afternoon train to Zurich

• leave Lugano early, stopping in Bellinzona to visit its medieval castles (Castelgrande, Montebello and Sasso Corbaro) 

• arrive in Zurich early and spend it there, exploring the city and visiting museums 

• or combine trains with boat travel to "meander" back to Zurich. 

Overnight in Zurich